Design Stitches made to measure

Design Stitches partners with Italy’s best factories and finest fabric mills. Whether you are commissioning a wedding tuxedo or a pair of denim jeans - our attention to quality is unsurpassed.   

Design Stitches started in 2005, and since our inception the quest for perfect Suit continues.

The confidence a Design Stitches client has when wearing his timeless and sophisticated garments is our greatest inspiration. 

Fineness of wool is generally measured in microns (μm) or millionths of a meter. It’s an extremely small measurement, fitting for a solitary wool fibre. Your average S100 count wool is about 18.75μm in diameter. For comparison, the average human hair is about 100μm wide. A very fine measurement of a woollen strand is under 16μm (S160 wool).

For a suit you will be wearing once a week, we suggest going with a fabric between S100 and S130. This way, you are wearing a fine fabric that will feel great to the touch, while still being durable enough to withstand a weekly beating. However for special occasion wear, like a tuxedo or a wedding suit, we recommend finer fabrics like a S150 to S180 wool, which will be soft to the touch and make you look and feel your best.

 Ply refers to the number of yarns that are twisted together to make a single thread. Two-ply, also named Doppio Ritorto, is a fabric manufacturing technique in which double-twisted yarns are used for weaving the fabric. Two-ply fabrics are luxurious to wear with a smooth, crisp feel, generally superior to single-ply fabrics. Of course, that’s not to say single-ply fabrics are not luxurious – higher count single ply fabrics with compact construction are equally sought after. 

We have developed our own fabric Durability Index. 

It’s here to help guide your customers, manage their expectations and ensure they get the most out of their made-to-measure garments. For example, before your customer orders a blend of wool, silk and cashmere, they should be advised on the proper care instructions, including that such luxurious materials are sensitive to wear and tear. Remember to tell all your customers that even the most durable garments require conscious maintenance in order to prolong their lifespan. After all, a well-informed customer is a happy customer and a happy customer means more loyalty (and more sales) for you.

The Durability Index uses a scale of DI 1 to DI 5: 

DI 1 

The most delicate fabrics made of exclusive materials, requiring gentle care. Fabrics with this DI indication will be vulnerable to pilling and abrasion after intensive wear. 

DI 5

The most durable fabrics made of materials built to withstand routine use. Fabrics with the highest DI indication take far longer to show any pilling and abrasion after intensive wear.

The weight of fabric basically tells you which season or temperature it is most appropriate for. This is usually indicated in grams or ounces and is based on the weight of one yard (91 cm) of fabric. We personally prefer grams, because it is a more detailed approach, but older English mills tend to use ounces. The typical fabric weights are between 175g and 320g. Of course, there are heavier and lighter fabrics, but the majority of fine suiting fabrics will land within this range.

A fabric’s weight is determined by how dense the fabric is woven, its composition and how it is finished. So contrary to popular belief, a fine high-super fabric does not necessarily mean it will weigh less.

English mills tend to make heavier fabrics because before heating the fireplace, and your clothes were the only things that kept you warm. The Italians, however, have milder winters and hot summers so their fabric tends to be lighter. In the 1930s, a style emerged from Napoli of bold and lightweight fabrics that has prevailed ever since

• Super lightweight; 175G – 225G
  
  • Only wear for tropical conditions
• Light weight: 225G – 250G
  
  • Good for tropics and summer time
• Mid weight: 250G – 285G
  
  • Good all year round. 
• Heavy weight 285 +
  
  • Good for fall and winter

To make a suit last as long as possible, it is important to care for your garment. Here are some tips:

• Never wash a jacket, waistcoat or trousers yourself! Take them to a professional dry cleaning service.

• Do not wear the same suit every day. Ideally, wear it no more than twice a week, with at least one day of rest in between.

• Minimize dry cleaning. For a suit that is worn once a week with the proper amount of rest, we suggest once a year.

• Store a suit in a dry, well-ventilated and dust-free closet. Preferably placing mothballs nearby too.

• Remove stains as quickly as possible with soap-free, lukewarm water.

• Never iron woolen suits without placing a cloth between the fabric and the iron.

Design Stitches partners with Italy’s best factories and finest fabric mills. Whether you are commissioning a wedding tuxedo or a pair of denim jeans - our attention to quality is unsurpassed.   

Design Stitches started in 2005, and since our inception the quest for perfect Suit continues.

The confidence a Design Stitches client has when wearing his timeless and sophisticated garments is our greatest inspiration. 

Fineness of wool is generally measured in microns (μm) or millionths of a meter. It’s an extremely small measurement, fitting for a solitary wool fibre. Your average S100 count wool is about 18.75μm in diameter. For comparison, the average human hair is about 100μm wide. A very fine measurement of a woollen strand is under 16μm (S160 wool).

For a suit you will be wearing once a week, we suggest going with a fabric between S100 and S130. This way, you are wearing a fine fabric that will feel great to the touch, while still being durable enough to withstand a weekly beating. However for special occasion wear, like a tuxedo or a wedding suit, we recommend finer fabrics like a S150 to S180 wool, which will be soft to the touch and make you look and feel your best.

 Ply refers to the number of yarns that are twisted together to make a single thread. Two-ply, also named Doppio Ritorto, is a fabric manufacturing technique in which double-twisted yarns are used for weaving the fabric. Two-ply fabrics are luxurious to wear with a smooth, crisp feel, generally superior to single-ply fabrics. Of course, that’s not to say single-ply fabrics are not luxurious – higher count single ply fabrics with compact construction are equally sought after. 

We have developed our own fabric Durability Index. 

It’s here to help guide your customers, manage their expectations and ensure they get the most out of their made-to-measure garments. For example, before your customer orders a blend of wool, silk and cashmere, they should be advised on the proper care instructions, including that such luxurious materials are sensitive to wear and tear. Remember to tell all your customers that even the most durable garments require conscious maintenance in order to prolong their lifespan. After all, a well-informed customer is a happy customer and a happy customer means more loyalty (and more sales) for you.

The Durability Index uses a scale of DI 1 to DI 5: 

DI 1 

The most delicate fabrics made of exclusive materials, requiring gentle care. Fabrics with this DI indication will be vulnerable to pilling and abrasion after intensive wear. 

DI 5

The most durable fabrics made of materials built to withstand routine use. Fabrics with the highest DI indication take far longer to show any pilling and abrasion after intensive wear.

The weight of fabric basically tells you which season or temperature it is most appropriate for. This is usually indicated in grams or ounces and is based on the weight of one yard (91 cm) of fabric. We personally prefer grams, because it is a more detailed approach, but older English mills tend to use ounces. The typical fabric weights are between 175g and 320g. Of course, there are heavier and lighter fabrics, but the majority of fine suiting fabrics will land within this range.

A fabric’s weight is determined by how dense the fabric is woven, its composition and how it is finished. So contrary to popular belief, a fine high-super fabric does not necessarily mean it will weigh less.

English mills tend to make heavier fabrics because before heating the fireplace, and your clothes were the only things that kept you warm. The Italians, however, have milder winters and hot summers so their fabric tends to be lighter. In the 1930s, a style emerged from Napoli of bold and lightweight fabrics that has prevailed ever since

• Super lightweight; 175G – 225G
  
  • Only wear for tropical conditions
• Light weight: 225G – 250G
  
  • Good for tropics and summer time
• Mid weight: 250G – 285G
  
  • Good all year round. 
• Heavy weight 285 +
  
  • Good for fall and winter

To make a suit last as long as possible, it is important to care for your garment. Here are some tips:

• Never wash a jacket, waistcoat or trousers yourself! Take them to a professional dry cleaning service.

• Do not wear the same suit every day. Ideally, wear it no more than twice a week, with at least one day of rest in between.

• Minimize dry cleaning. For a suit that is worn once a week with the proper amount of rest, we suggest once a year.

• Store a suit in a dry, well-ventilated and dust-free closet. Preferably placing mothballs nearby too.

• Remove stains as quickly as possible with soap-free, lukewarm water.

• Never iron woolen suits without placing a cloth between the fabric and the iron.